Thursday, July 24, 2014

Snapshots of Tirana


a rare glimpse of rainy Tirana


view of the artificial lake through the forest


era restaurant/pizzeria (the best of the best)

view from the apartment

 the famous hoxha pyramid 
 fountain/casino/park area near skanderbeg square
skanderbeg square

Albania 101

Albania isn't exactly a touristic hotspot. Unlike my experiences in other European countries, I barely ever see foreigners, most people don't speak a word of English, and there's relatively little information about it on the web. This might seem strange considering it shares many of the appeals of other Mediterranean countries including gorgeous beaches, an abundance of Roman ruins, vibrant cities and some of the most delicious food in the world. But, when you consider the country's history, it makes sense. Albania was under the rule of Enver Hoxha, a very oppressive dictator much like Stalin or the Kim family in North Korea up until the 1990s. People weren't allowed to leave or visit the country during his reign of over four decades so tourism in Albania today is still in its infancy.

Despite the difficulties Albania has faced in being so isolated, there are some surprisingly good results that have come of it. For one thing, there are supposedly no American franchises. No McDonalds, no Starbucks. In their places are never-ending small restaurants and cafes, each with their own distinct personalities. Albania has also been able to hold onto their language and culture, maintaining their customs and disinterest in learning English despite the worldwide pull of the American media. 

It's very difficult to capture the essence of Albania. At a first glance, it reminded me of Italy. The people look similar, there's gelato and pizza, a smattering of Italian architecture, and Albanians actually speak quite a bit of Italian. But it's clearly not Italy. In so many ways, it's purely Albanian. The haggling with street vendors that ends with good-humored joking, the hospitality of your neighbors, conversing with people in the apartment building next to you, and most of all, what I call "the Albanian flow." It's this that allows the streets to have few traffic lights or turn signals amounting to driving that has no apparent logic. But in Tirana, the capital, the people never stop and the cars never stop. They're in the flow and despite never coming to a full stop for each other, they make it work.